Meghalaya - The abode of clouds

This was my first exploration into the North East of India and very exciting at that. It was a last minute decision and we scurried with our tickets. First up , we did not book any accommodation for the entire trip. We had a rough itinerary that we had had from people and we decided to just go with the flow.

Day 1 

We travelled from Hyderabad to Guwahati because the direct flights to Shillong were more expensive. The only booking I made was guesthouse in Guwahati.

It was a homestay . We took the room on the terrace ₹1400 for the night . It was very basic accommodation and some good food . We could also take beers .  A meal costs 150- 200 at an average .The owner Mr.Bora was very accommodating and we had some nice conversations. This is the thing about homrstays . You live just like a local would and you get a good peek into the day to day life .The caretaker is a great young boy who is also extremely friendly with his Gastfreundlichkeit .

Mr.Bora suggested that we could take a shared taxi from Khanapara to Shillong 10 mins from the guest house .

Day 2

We left at 830 after some breakfast . The previous night, we made a booking on booking.com @ ₹2240 per night for 2 nights at the Shillong Guest House . I wasn't sure of the hotels in Police Bazaar and we weren't getting a room . It ended up being the best decision . Police bazaar was too crowded for my taste.

We reached Shillong - police bazaar by shared Taxi @ INR 400 from Khanpara at 11 am .Alternately these shared taxis are available from the airport to Police Bazaar which is the city centre . 

The only reason we didn't take a taxi the previous night was because we thought the road will be risky . 

We had a quick something to eat at Bread Cafe - nice small place .

We took another taxi to the guest house for 100 Rs. During the day until 5 pm taxis charge 100 Rs. You can also get shared ones for 20 rupees .

George the owner of the guest house was great . He suggested our  evening plan and we decided to walk around the town .We first went to Polo ground accidentally and witnessed an archery game by the Khasis. It was like time travel . All in their traditional outfits competing in teams . also watched a soccer practice game . Professional footballers in their very fancy soccer gear playing the game with so much passion.

Next we walked up to the golf course . It is Asia's second largest, except that there is no golf . A very nice view of the culture and the vibe . There are some shops next to the Golf Course, where we had momos . Right there is a delicious bakery place called James . You get good freshly baked cookies etc .

We then went up the hill to see the church . It was lovely . People in their evening Sunday best .

It started to get dark and we weren't sure  we also went to Lady Hydra park and the park was closing at 545pm but we got a glimpse of the beautiful flowers . We started walking again and came across a restaurant - I think it was Kitchen Express and you get beers there . It had a lot of young people and after church dinner people . 

We then headed back to our guest house . 

Day 3 

We left the guesthouse at 8 am after breakfast and went to the Lytumkrah taxi stand . There we asked a couple of taxi drivers

Laitlum canyons 

To take us to Smit - shared . They infact advised us to go to Laitlum . We quickly looked it up and seemed like a nice place . The journey to The Laitlum Canyons was beautiful . We passed a few villages and finally reached the Canyons . There is a small village called Rasool at the bottom of the valley . The trek is treacherous so it's best to stay on the plateau . There is small stall that a guy called Ruban and his wife run with tea and Maggie etc . This place is nice for a picnic and relaxing . We spent 4 hours until it started to rain and it rained really heavily .

On the way back we stopped at Smit . There was a local

Market . The people of Smit were unwelcoming and hostile, but they are original Khasi .I wouldn't blame them . They have very limited exposure to the outside world and in a sense we are encroaching their space . The Smit market was huge . But I can safely say that if you want to experience the culture , Smit is the place where you see so much character in the faces of the people.

We then got back to Shillong and had lunch at Cafe Shillong - close to our guesthouse . Amazing food - I found the restaurant to be expensive but worth it .

It started to rain cats and dogs and suddenly started getting darker .We went to the main cathedral, which is beautiful . Took a shared cab to Police Bazaar and explored a bit . This is when I really had  to get myself  a raincoat .It was super crowded and rainy . 

So we headed back to our guest house and ordered nice tea and a warm dinner .

We decided to go to Nongriat the next day and so called for a cab to drop us to Cherapunjee( now known as Sohra) .

Day 4 

We checked out after breakfast . The cab was fixed at ₹1600  till Sohra . We reached Sohra at 1030 and had a cup of tea there at Halari . We took a shared taxi for 50 bucks to Mawsmai caves . The entry was ₹20 per person and a camera fee. We went with our bags so the cave was very narrow for me walk through . If you are someone who feels claustrophobic, then the caves may not be a place  for you .Its some climbing - so it's best done with out bags . Make sure you carry your phone or. Torch . The lights can go off and you cannot see the end of the cave - so it gets tricky. I completed the walkthrough the cave . It was short and fun. We then climbed some steps  a little away from the caves again a small meadow . 

We got a shared taxi to the 7 sister falls - very touristy but a great view . We had a cup of tea after a short walk at a restaurant . 

We then decided to leave for Nongriat . 

To reach Nongriat you have to go to a village called Tyrna . The taxi to Tyrna is ₹300.

Tyrna has one stall where you will get Maggie . 

Make sure you have a light lunch at Sohra . The trek is 3500 steps . It's advisable not to take your bags . It's a downhill and uphill trek with several steps .There are porters who will help you with your bags for ₹300.

Wear good shoes - long pants . There are too many insects and mosquitoes . Try and start your trek at 11 - so that you can enjoy Nongriat .

We left at 240pm and reached at 430pm after several stops . It started to get dark . 

Make sure you carry biscuits , water , some lime juice . 

You can harry a porter for your bags . We were charged 600 for two bags . I used the porter only

On the way back .

You can make a booking at Serene Home stay or the Nongriat guest house . Nongriat Guest house is cheaper . We didn't get a booking at Serene Homestay . 

We reached when it was dark so we just had tea and some dinner later .

We met some really interesting people at the guest house and it was community dinner .Again great conversations and exchange of ideas .You will be surprised to know that there are a few foreign tourists who also come to check out this non mainstream place .

Day 5 

We left at 845am after breakfast with our porter Ibor . It was much easier without the bags .

A lot of breaks . All the shops on the way back were closed . We had to stop because it rained like crazy . 

Finally somehow made it up at 11 . Had some Maggie and tea at the stall .

When I came back up it was this exhilarating feeling of being alive again. 

Called our driver to take us back to Sohra . 

Once we reached Sohra we had lunch near the taxi standard. It was delicious in a very tiny restaurant .

We then asked a couple of drivers to take us to Dawki the rate was ₹3000 + and nobody would leave for dawki at that time - around 230 pm . 

Finally a driver called Baba agreed to take us for 1800 to Mawlynlong instead.

The route was picturesque . Interesting conversation and a very well read man .

We reached Mawlynlong after sunset . It a beautiful small town and know for its cleanliness . We did not have a booking and were having a cup of team when a man approached us and asked us if we needed accommodation . He was the school master in the local school  .What we needed was a clean room and hot water . His room was a small cottage and extremely well maintained . He gave it to us for ₹1000. I think that was the best  bath I have had . You know like the ones you  rememeber , (who remembers a routine thing like a bath anyway ). meals available but the restaurant was ten steps away . Delicious dinner - dal and chutney And fish and chicken was served with rotis .

It was a rewarding experience after the Nongriat trek which left us sore .

Day 6 . 

We needed to go to Dawki , but transportation from Mawlynlong was difficult , but we got lucky and a guy called Freddy agreed to drop us for 800 Rs. It was a fun ride with a lot of cultural inputs from Freddy .

He dropped us to Dawki .

My first impression of Dawki was - how can this be Meghalaya . The town centre is quite dirty - probably the Bangladesh influence and there is no proper place for chai etc . Dingy restaurants and not so great food . We were super hungry and had something to eat anyway . 

We then walked to the Dawki boating area with our luggage . We got a boat for 700 bucks for two of us . It was nice ride with a sweet boatman . It is interesting to see the Bangladesh and India border . 

We then walked back to the main town and took a cab for 300 Rs to Shonpedeng . It was about 20

Mins away . There is fancy restaurant on the way called beetle nut . We didn't stop there though . We couldn't find accommodation but finally the we spoke to Micky a restaurant where we had chai and he had a room . It was an okayish room for 1500 Rs. We were just glad that we had a place to stay . 

We went kayaking and it was sunset time - simply beautiful. 

Day 7 

Shnonpedeng was closed because of a death in the village . So Micky offered us tea and some biscuits . There was no transport so we trekked to Darang .On the way we got a lift to Dawki . 

The driver negotiated with another driver to take us to Shillong for 1600 Rs. 

The car broke down or the driver was pretending . Finally made it to Shillong at 3 pm.

We then walked around Shillong and end up at Dylan's cafe a upmarket cafe . 

Day 8

We took a shared taxi back to Guwahati . Stayed at the same home stay and in the evening we took the bhramaputra cruise . It was quiet nice evening .

Overall like any other journey , this was something else .